Abstract
The short-term statistics of wave conditions in coastal waters around
the UK have been investigated using over 40,000 half-hour long sea state
records with significant wave height greater than 3 m. The extensive
data set facilitates an assessment of various wave height and period
distribution models in shallow and intermediate waters. The results
reveal that the relative wave height Hs/D (where
Hs is the significant wave height and D the water
depth) can serve as a key indicator in choosing the distribution with
least error in a given sea state. The Naess model is found to be the
most accurate in describing the tail of the wave height distribution in
a sea state for low relative wave heights (Hs/D
< 0.2), and the depth-dependent van Vledder model for high
relative heights (Hs/D > 0.4). In
between these sea states, a transition in the performance of the
deep-water and the depth-dependent models is visible. When details of
the spectrum are not available, the Weibull distribution is the most
accurate amongst applicable models, in spite of considerable variability
in its parameter values. While the spectral bandwidth appears to have
minimal impact on the distribution of wave heights in a sea state, it
does appear to influence the distribution of wave periods. Wave period
relationships based on measurements are found to deviate from empirical
relationships proposed, for example, by the US Army Coastal Engineering
Manual. Improved formulas that incorporate the spectral width are
therefore proposed.