Co-located pressure and velocity observations in 10-15m depth are used to estimate the relative contribution of bound and free infragravity (IG) wave energy to the IG wave field. Shoreward and seaward going IG waves are analyzed separately. At the Southern California sites, shoreward propagating IG waves are dominated by free waves, with the bound wave energy fraction <30% for moderate energy incident sea-swell and <10% for low energy incident sea-swell. Only the 5% of records with energetic long swell show primarily bound waves. Consistent with bound IG wave theory, the energy scales as the square (frequency integrated) sea-swell energy, with a higher correlation with swell than sea energy. Seaward and shoreward free IG energy is strongly tidally modulated. The ratio of free seaward to shoreward propagating IG energy suggests between 50-100% of the energy radiated offshore is trapped on the shelf seaward of 10-15m and redirected shoreward. Remote sources of IG energy are small. The observed linear dependency of free seaward and shoreward IG energy on local sea-swell wave energy and tide are parameterized with good skill (R2 ~ 0.90). Free (random phase) and bound (phase-coupled) IG waves are included in numerically simulated timeseries for shoreward IG waves that are used to initialize (~ 10m depth) the numerical nonlinear wave transformation SWASH. On the low slope study beach, wave runup is only weakly influenced by free shoreward propagating waves observed at the offshore boundary (foreshore slope = 0.02).

An empirically based sediment budget model is developed for Cardiff State Beach CA to assess management strategies to maintain beach width subject to mean sea level rise (MSLR) and potentially more frequent El Niño storms. Two decades (2000-2019) of surveys support the hypothesis that the rocky reefs bounding this beach retain sand added to the nearshore zone, except during strong El Niño years with more severe storm waves. The subaerial beach has widened by ~60 m during the last 20 years owing to nourishment (~17K m3/yr) of imported sand, and sand bypassed annually by dredging a lagoon inlet at the beach’s updrift end. The observed widening yields 1 m/yr of mean beach width increase for each 6 m3/m-shoreline of added sand. A strong El Niño year is modeled with a permanent volume loss coupled with a shoreline retreat that recovers partially as the beach profile adjusts between El Niño years. Calibrated with observations from Cardiff and South Torrey Pines (a control beach), the model is used to project beach change through 2050. All modeled scenarios suggest that no bypassing or nourishment (no “management”) will result in tens of meters of beach width loss. However, continued bypassing would partially mitigate MSLR and El Niño beach width losses. An artificially built (living shoreline) dune that backs the beach, if completely undermined during strong El Niño storm waves, stores enough sand to balance one-third of the expected volume loss that year, and may make the beach more resilient and speed subsequent beach recovery.

Tropical Instability Vortices (TIVs) have a major influence on the physics and biogeochemistry of the equatorial Pacific. Using an eddy-resolving configuration of the Community Earth System Model (CESM-HR) and Lagrangian particle tracking, we examine TIV impacts on the three-dimensional structure and variability of dissolved oxygen (O2) in the upper equatorial Pacific water column. In CESM-HR, the simulated generation and westward propagation of TIVs from boreal summer through winter lead to the seasonal oxygenation of the upper northern equatorial Pacific, exhibited as a deepening of hypoxic depth west of 120ºW. TIV effects on the equatorial Pacific oxygen balance are dominated by eddy-advection and mixing, while indirect TIV effects on O2 consumption play minor roles. These advective effects reflect the transient displacements of isopycnals by eddy pumping as well as vortex transport of oxygen by eddy trapping, stirring, and subduction. TIVs influence on the upper equatorial Pacific O2 distribution and variability has important implications for understanding and modeling marine ecosystem dynamics and habitats, and should be taken into consideration in designing observation networks in this region.