Abstract
In response to frequent fatal beach drownings, China’s first operational
attempt on the rip current hazard investigation was made by the National
Marine Hazard Mitigation Service (NMHMS). A great number of recreational
beaches were found developing rip currents interlaced with rhythmic
sandbars, varying by season and location evidenced by satellite images
and morphodynamic calculation. Considering insufficient understanding of
the multi-channel rip system, case analysis and numerical study were
conducted to explore its dynamicity and circulation characteristics
under various wave climates in present work. The strength of rip
currents was generally proportional to wave height and channel width
under certain limits. Increasing wave height was not always a promotion
and could even weaken the rip current due to the strong wave-current
shear. Interesting “pump” and “feed” interactions between adjacent
rip currents in the multi-channel system were observed. The rip current
might be totally absent in narrow channels when the majority of water
flows through neighboring broader pathways. The rip current was highly
sensitive to the incident wave angle. Alongshore currents prevailed over
the rip current when the wave angle reached 11 degrees to shore normal,
which was not favorable to the existence of channeled sandbars. Vortices
appeared around the edge of the bar owing to nonuniform wave breaking
over rapid-varying bathymetry. The setup water was created shoreward by
the sandbar array and substantially increased as the wave deviated from
the normal incidence. The water surface depression in the rip channel
was not observed as the wave angle increased, which fundamentally
explained why the rip current could not persist when the incident wave
became slightly oblique. In future, incident wave angle should be
further incorporated into empirical formulas or probabilistic models to
predict the rip current for expected improvement in accuracy.