Field measurements from contrasting reefs show spurs and grooves can
dissipate more wave energy than the reef crest
Abstract
Coral reefs are widely recognized as effective dissipaters of wave
energy. Spurs and grooves (SAG) are common features of fore reefs
worldwide and are thought to be particularly efficient at dissipating
wave energy. However, very few studies have collected in-situ
hydrodynamic data to verify this and understand SAG interactions with
hydrodynamic forces. We present in-situ wave data from contrasting SAG
sites at Moorea, French Polynesia and One Tree Reef in the southern
Great Barrier Reef, Australia. We measured extremely high rates of wave
energy dissipation (up to 0.1 kW/m) than the adjacent spur (mean =0.01
kW/m2). Correlations between measured dissipation,
wave height and depth allowed us to develop a conceptual model showing
that SAGs dissipate more energy under high wave conditions at low tides,
while the reef crest dissipates more energy at high tides under small
wave conditions. Further study is required to better understand and
model the hydrodynamics of SAG zones and the important role they play in
reef dynamics and coastal protection.