A new morphodynamic instability associated to the cross-shore transport
in the nearshore
Abstract
The existing theory for alongshore rhythmic bars relies on morphodynamic
instabilities involving the wave-driven longshore current and rip
currents. Transverse finger bars are common on coasts with a beach
profile above the equilibrium profile (something not related to those
currents). Here we show that under these conditions, the cross-shore
transport can induce an instability which is triggered by the onshore
transport together with wave refraction by the emerging bars. It is a
finite amplitude instability, something not previously found in coastal
geomorphology. We use a numerical model that filters out the dynamics
associated to those currents. The alongshore spacing scales with the
wavelength of the incident waves and the cross-shore extent is about the
distance from shore to the depth of closure. The modelled bars compare
qualitatively well with observations at El Trabucador back-barrier beach
(Ebro delta, Western Mediterranean Sea).